Sufganiyot are Israel’s most popular Chanukah food. These powdered jelly doughnuts are by far the best I’ve ever made and are even better than the bakeries’.
Weeks prior to Chanukah, you can smell sufganiyot baking wherever you go in Israel tempting you to bite into the fluffy powered pastry. Every bakery, pastry shop, mini market, and grocery store is filled with them.
There is nowhere this is more true than while walking the streets of Jerusalem. There, the holiday spirit truly comes to life.
Not only through the smell of heavenly jelly filled donuts filling the crisp winter air, but all around you.
I remember looking out the bus window one evening during first Chanukah as an adult in Israel.
The streets in the heart of town were streamed with blue and white lights. Chanukah menorahs were on display and a life sized one was lit, only walking distance, at the Wall.
As we drove up Agripas I saw Israelis, immigrants, and tourists fill Machane Yehudah Market wondering from shop to shop and buying sufganiyot from the bakeries.
I watched this in awe, realizing that most of these people, religious or traditional, would be lighting candles just as I would. For the first time, I felt truly connected to Chanukah, which every other year had been outshone by Christmas in New York. I felt blessed.
Since that night, just the smell of sufganiyot puts me in a happy and content mood.
I’ve tried to make them a number of times with little success. They were always too heavy and/or too yeasty.
In part, this may have been due to having the oil on too high of a temperature, causing them to cook too quickly. After a lot of trial and error, though, I’ve finally found the perfect recipe!
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Mixer with bread hooks
2’’ or 3” cookie cutter – for Israeli bakery styled sufganiyot use a 3”
Pot for boiling
Fine mesh strainer (spoon)
Squeeze bottle or syringe
BREAD FLOUR VS ALL PURPOSE FLOUR
Bread flour has a higher protein content than all-purpose, which helps with gluten development.
Some recipes call for it if an especially chewy texture is desired. It will also produce a heavier and denser loaf.
All purpose flour has a lower protein content, but can generally be substituted for bread flour.
I almost never use anything other than all purpose flour, including in bread recipes. I like it because it’s inexpensive and extremely versatile.
HOW TO MEASURE FLOUR AND OTHER DRY INGREDIENTS
Using a dry measuring cup, scoop ingredients from the bag or spoon them into the cup. Next, level off the ingredient by removing the excess with an upside-down butter knife.
The one exception to this is brown sugar. Brown sugar should be packed down and then any excess should be scraped off as well.
DRY VS LIQUID MEASURING CUP
Ever wonder why measuring spoons often come with a set of measuring cups? I used to. I didn’t see why we needed a set when we could have one large measuring cup.
After a quick search, I had my answer. I discovered that the large measuring cup is used for liquids, whereas the set is used for dry ingredients.
As it turns out, if you try to measure dry ingredients with a liquid cup, the measurements get messed up.
First, you pour the flour or cocoa in, next you shake it around to get it level, and then you add more.
By shaking it, you are causing the powder to settle, and when you add more, you end up using more than called for.
WHY SIFT FLOUR and Other Powder Ingredients
There are a number of benefits to sifting flour and other ingredients like cocoa ingredients:
It removes any unwanted debris and you can get a more accurate measurement than when packed tight in a bag.
It also removes any lumps that can get into the batter and be hard to break up later, or be missed altogether before baking.
If you sift the powdered ingredients together, it helps combine them and mix more evenly with other dry ingredients like sugar.
Types of YEAST
There are seven different types of yeast used for baking. However, only five are relevant to home bakers:
Wild yeast is found naturally in the air. This type of yeast is used for sourdough breads, and in order to use it, you need to make a sourdough starter.
Fresh yeast (a.k.a. cake yeast), block yeast, wet yeast, or compressed yeast is found in small, foil-wrapped cubes.
It is far less popular with home bakers because it’s highly perishable. However, it is still widely available for commercial use and is still used by home bakers in some countries.
The benefits of using it is that it’s easier to measure and has the most leavening power.
If you want to use fresh yeast in this recipe for every 1 teaspoon instant dry yeast you’d need 17 grams (or .6 ounces) of fresh yeast.
Make sure to bloom it before using it in this recipe.
ACTIVE DRY YEAST
Active dry yeast looks like large grained powder mainly used by home bakers in the States.
It has a much longer lifespan than compressed yeast, lasting up to a year at room temperature and more than a decade if frozen.
Unlike other types of yeast, it needs to proof first. This means it is rehydrated in warm liquid such as water or milk to activate it.
The main downside of using this is that a lot of the yeast is already dead, so you need more of it than other yeasts. This can cause an undesired yeast flavor.
If you want to use active dry yeast in this recipe, for 1 teaspoon of instant dry yeast you need 1 1/4 teaspoons of active dry yeast.
Make sure to bloom it first before using it in this recipe.
Instant yeast looks the same as active dry yeast. However, it does not need to be proofed before using. Instead of having to be activated in warm liquid first, it can be added as is when making the dough.
It is more perishable than active dry yeast, lasting only 2 to 4 months at room temperature and for years in the freezer.
This is my favorite type of yeast to use because it lasts longer than fresh yeast and you need less of it than active dry yeast.
Typically it will be 1 teaspoon of active dry yeast for every cup of flour called for in a recipe.
Rapid-rise yeast is often specifically marketed toward users of bread machines. It’s essentially instant yeast with a smaller grain. The smaller granules allow it to dissolve faster in the dough and therefore rise faster.
While most baking experts believe that the bread flavors aren’t as developed by using this yeast. others feel it makes little difference.
WHY BlOOM INSTANT YEAST?
As mentioned above, active dry yeast needs to be bloomed (aka proofed) before use to activate it, but I also proof instant yeast. The reason for this is because it helps troubleshoot if any problems come up.
By blooming the yeast first, you know it is active. So, if the dough has trouble rising, you know it’s not the yeast.
This is particularly useful when you don’t have a “warm” place to let it rise.
How to Bloom Yeast
To bloom, place the yeast, warm water, and sugar together in the bowl. Stir and wait for it to activate.
You know the yeast is activated when foam appears on the surface. This can take up to 10 minutes.
Please not that hot water will kill the yeast and cool water won’t activate it. Lukewarm water is ideal.
If you are using fresh yeast, make sure to break it up with a fork once it is in the water.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE DOUGH TO RISE?
How quickly dough rises depends on how warm the place it is rising in is.
If you put it in the fridge for instance it could take 8 hours or so. In the summer in Israel, it rises very quickly.
If you leave it on the counter in a comfortably warm room, its usually 45 minutes.
HOW TO RISE BREAD FASTER
I often find myself running late and need to rise dough faster, or sometimes, in the winter, I don’t have a warm place and the dough take forever to rise. So, I let my dough rise in a warm oven.
What I do is preheat the oven to its lowest temperature and turn it off. Then, I cover the dough with a damp towel and place the oven.
This trick works for me every time. On occasion, I may need to remove the dough and preheat the oven another time or two, but usually just once does the trick.
The down side of this process is that some bakers feel it doesn’t allow for flavors to really develop. Personally, I never noticed much of a difference.
PUNCHING DOUGH DOWN
Punching is a bit of a strong word. Yeast is a delicate living thing so you actually need to treat it with care.
What you’re really doing is lightly pressing down the dough through the center with first. This removes gasses that have formed during the first rise allowing for a better crumb.
By doing this you are also bring the yeast, sugar, and moisture back together which is important for the second rise as the yeast feeds on the sugar.
After you “punch” the dough you should pull edges of the dough to the center. Once you’re done, take dough out of bowl and place on lightly floured board, turn over, and shape your dough into a ball.
If desired, you can kneading the dough two or three times to release additional air bubbles.
LET THE DOUGH REST
While you don’t need to let the dough rest after punching it down, it is preferable to.
If you have the time, allow the dough to rest between 10 to 40 minutes. Ideally no less than 15 minutes.
This will allow the gluten to relax making the dough easier to roll out and shape.
I often allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes in the fridge with a damp towel. Chilled dough can be easier to work with.
THE SECOND RISE
The second rise allows the yeast to feed longer on the sugar. This allows the bread to become larger, have a better crumb, and develop a better flavor.
Also, if you were to let it rise only once, punch it down, shape it, and stick it in the oven, your bread would rise somewhat, but not enough for it to become fluffy.
HOW TO STORE
Cover tightly with plastic wrap. This will preserve them for two days at room temperature. To preserve them for up to a week: refrigerate them in a sealed plastic bag with as much air removed as possible.
HOW TO FREEZE
It’s preferable to freeze un-powdered Sufganiyot. To freeze, store inside of a heavy-duty freezer bag and squeeze out the excess air before sealing.
The freeze for up to 2 to 3 months. After that time, they will still be safe to eat but their quality will begin to degrade.
The first time I made these, I heated the oil to 350°F or 175°C and simmered it on each side for a minute. The recipe came out great, but a little flatter than I’d like it.
If you try this recipe, let me know! Leave a comment, rate it, and don’t forget to hashtag a photo #thetasteofkosher on Instagram.